Carista Dyno Test
User Guide

Estimate your engine’s horsepower and torque from a single full-throttle pull, right from your phone.
Carista Dyno Test
User Guide
Available in BETA

Look up your car’s drag coefficient & frontal area

Two of the required inputs — drag coefficient (Cd) and frontal area — can be difficult to find. Pick your make, model and year below. The database holds published figures for 24,910 model variants from 53 manufacturers, 2000–2026.

Loading vehicle data…

Don’t see your exact trim? Values are usually very close between trims of the same body shape — use the nearest match, or the tool’s pre-filled defaults if nothing is close.

All you need to know

How to use the tool

The app shows you a short version of these steps. Here's the same process with a bit more explanation:
01

Find a safe, open road.

Drive to a location with plenty of clear space ahead and no traffic or hazards.
02

Select the right gear. 

While driving, shift into 2nd or 3rd gear. For automatic cars you must use manual mode, so the car doesn't change gear on its own during the test.
03

Hold a steady starting RPM, then press Start.

— 1,500 — 2,000 RPM for turbocharged or supercharged engines, or
— 2,000 — 2,500 RPM for naturally aspirated engines.
04

Accelerate at full throttle to the redline.

Press the gas pedal fully and accelerate all the way to the redline (maximum RPM) — without changing gears. (Changing gears during the test will invalidate the results).
05

Lift off the gas when you reach the redline.

Once you reach the redline, simply ease off the gas pedal as you normally would - the test stops automatically.
06

See your vehicle's estimated peak engine horsepower and torque.*

They will be displayed in the "Results" section.
BETA Feature

Where to find it in the app

You'll find the Dyno Test in the Service Tools section of the Carista app.

BETA Feature

Where to find it in the app

You'll find the Dyno Test in the Service Tools section of the Carista app.

Why these steps matter

Follow the process closely to give the tool the cleanest data possible.

Stay in one gear

Staying in one gear lets the tool track a clean continuous pull.

Continuous pull

A single continuous pull gives the tool clean acceleration data to work from.

Steady RPM

Starting from a steady RPM ensures the pull begins cleanly rather than mid-surge.

Results quality

If you don't follow the steps closely you won't get valid results
Safety first

Read this before you start

A dyno run means accelerating your car at full throttle. Please treat it seriously and follow every precaution below.

Use a safe, legal location

Only run the test on a private track, closed course, or a road where hard acceleration is permitted and safe. Never test in traffic, residential areas, or anywhere speeding could endanger people.

Keep your eyes on the road

Focus completely on driving. If possible, have a passenger operate the phone so you do not need to look away from the road during the test.

Obey traffic laws

Follow all posted speed limits and local traffic laws. You are fully responsible for deciding how and where you use the Dyno Test tool.

Remember that speeding is dangerous

Speeding can harm you and others. Conducting these tests is entirely at your own risk, and you bear full responsibility and liability for any resulting damage or harm.
Checklist

Before you start

For the best and safest results, prepare the following
A safe, open, and ideally flat stretch of road or track with plenty of clear space ahead
Your car warmed up to normal operating temperature.
Your tires set to the correct pressure.
The input values ready (see the next section) — all of them are required.

Understanding the inputs

Before the test you'll enter some details about your car. Every field is mandatory, and the accuracy of your results depends heavily on entering these correctly.

Vehicle kerb weight

The total weight of the car at the moment you use the tool. This includes the car itself plus all passengers, fuel, and anything else you're carrying as luggage. The more precise this is, the better.

Drivetrain type

How power reaches the wheels: Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD), All-Wheel Drive (AWD), AWD configured as RWD.

Transmission type

The kind of gearbox your car has — for example Manual, Automated Manual, Conventional Automatic, Dual-Clutch (DCT), Continuously Variable (CVT), and others. Pick the one that matches your car. This helps the tool account for power lost through the drivetrain.

Tire size

Width, aspect ratio, and rim size — straight from your tire's sidewall. For a tire marked 205/55 R16: width = 205 (mm), aspect ratio = 55 (%), rim size = 16 (inches).

Tire pressure

Enter the pressure of the tires on the driven axle (for example, the front tires on a front-wheel-drive car). For all-wheel-drive cars, enter the average.

Outside temperature

The current air temperature. This affects air density, and therefore how much aerodynamic drag the car experiences.

Road angle

The incline of the road. If you're not sure, use a flat road and enter 0° — a flat road always gives better results. Positive numbers mean uphill (incline); negative numbers mean downhill (decline).

Drag coefficient (Cd) & frontal area

Aerodynamic details of your car. They influence how much power is used pushing air out of the way at speed. Look up the correct values for your specific model. Sensible defaults are pre-filled for drivers who can't find these figures, but real numbers improve accuracy.

Road and tire quality

A single value describing how good the road grip and your tires are, combined. Use this as a guide:

Range Conditions
90–100% Perfect conditions — new tires and good, dry asphalt.
80–90% Good conditions — normal asphalt and tires in good shape.
60–80% Average conditions — worn pavement or slightly worn tires.
30–60% Poor conditions — bad pavement or worn tires.
0–30% Very poor conditions — very bad pavement or extreme tire wear.

READING YOUR RESULTS

Once the tool detects the end of your pull, it shows two values:

  • Engine horsepower (HP) — the estimated peak horsepower from your pull.
  • Engine torque (Nm) — the estimated peak torque from your pull.

These represent the highest power and torque the tool detected during your acceleration run.

TIPS FOR THE MOST ACCURATE RESULTS

  • Enter every value as accurately as possible — especially weight, tire size, and aerodynamics.
  • Use a flat road and set the road angle to 0° when in doubt.
  • Do a single, uninterrupted full-throttle pull to the redline without shifting.
  • Start from a steady RPM in the recommended range for your engine type.
  • Run the test a few times and compare — consistent conditions give more reliable results.
  • Warm up the car first, and make sure tire pressures are correct.

Which cars is it available for?

The Dyno Test works on most OBD2 vehicles that report vehicle speed and engine RPM through the OBD2 port.

Petrol cars from 2001 onwards

Diesel cars from 2004 onwards

It is not brand-specific — it works across makes and models as long as the required live data is available.

Modified cars are fully supported too. Whether your car has an ECU remap, engine hardware changes, or another modification, the tool works just as well and just as accurately — as long as you provide correct input data. The Dyno Test estimates the power your engine is actually producing on the day, so it naturally reflects any modifications you have made.

Not supported yet: hybrids and electric vehicles. The Dyno Test is currently designed for conventional petrol and diesel engines and is not suitable for hybrid or electric vehicles for now. Support for hybrids and EVs is planned for the near future.

What is the Dyno Test tool?

Get an estimate of your engine’s horsepower and torque from a real acceleration run - no workshop visit needed.
Carista battery health check

Establish a baseline

Get a clear starting point for your car's current performance.

Compare improvements

Compare performance before and after a modification or service.

Understand your engine

Discover what your engine really delivers under today's conditions.

What is a Real Dynamometer ("Dyno")?

A dynamometer, or “dyno”, is the machine professional tuners use to measure engine power. There are two common types:
Carista battery health data

Rolling road (chassis) dyno

You drive the car onto a set of heavy rollers. The car accelerates in place while sensors measure the force the wheels put into the rollers, allowing the machine to calculate power at the wheels.

Engine dyno

The engine is removed from the car and bolted directly to the machine, which measures power at the crankshaft.

A real dyno directly measures power in a controlled workshop, making it highly accurate—but it requires specialist equipment, an appointment, and can be expensive.

Real dyno vs. the Carista Dyno Test

The Carista Dyno Test is not trying to replace a professional dyno. It’s engineered to give you the best possible estimate from the data you provide — whenever and wherever you are.

Professional dyno

How it works
Directly measures power on physical machinery.
Where
At a specialist workshop.
Cost
Can be expensive.
Availability
By appointment.
Result
Direct measurement.

Carista Dyno Test

How it works
Estimates power from a real on-road pull plus your car’s details.
Where
Anywhere you can safely accelerate.
Cost
Included in Carista.
Availability
Any time you want.
Result
Best-possible estimate.

The more accurate the information you enter, the closer the estimate will be.

How the estimate is calculated?

You don’t need any math to use the tool - but here’s the idea in plain language. During your pull, the tool records how quickly your car speeds up. From physics, the force needed to accelerate a car depends on its weight and how fast it’s gaining speed. On top of that, some of the engine’s effort is always “used up” by other factors, so the tool also accounts for:

Air resistance (drag)

Grows quickly with speed and depends on your car’s shape and the air temperature.

Rolling resistance

The friction created by the tires as they move along the road.

Road incline

Extra effort needed to climb, or a little help gained when going downhill.

Gearing and transmission losses

Not all of the engine’s power reaches the wheels.

By adding all of these together and working backwards from your acceleration, the tool estimates how much torque - and therefore horsepower - your engine must be producing. That’s why entering accurate details matters so much: each one feeds directly into the calculation.

FAQ

Help us improve the tool

Dyno Test is in BETA - your feedback helps improve it. If you can, please share:

  • Your car’s official or known horsepower and torque
  • The horsepower and torque Dyno Test showed
  • Test conditions, such as road, weather, and gear used
  • Any modifications and, if known, the original and modified figures

Every report helps improve accuracy. Differences between real and estimated figures are especially valuable - thank you!